cupcakes!

Do you ever get tired of simple patterns, that costs you an arm and a leg?

Thats how I feel about the popular cupcake and owl patterns. how can you charge for something so simple? The argument is that you put thought into it, and people are not interested in putting their own brain to the task of working the pattern out. They are willing to pay for the convenience of having this pattern written out for them to use.

I honestly just want to spread the joy of knitting and crochet to the masses.

This is crocheted with two tones of Caron Simply Soft, and an I hook. You can use any yarn you want, and any hook that coordinates with it.

This is a newborn- 6 months, but you can also size it however you want, just keep expanding the pattern, until it's the size you want it.

Special stitches:

double puff: yo, insert hook in next stitch, pull loop through, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo insert hook in same stitch, yo, pull loop through, yo, pull through 2 loop son hook, yo, pull through all loops on hook, you have just made 1 puff.... sounds complicated, I promise, it isnt.

Alternative: just use regular dbl, as you would normally start a hat.

Scallop: 6dbl in 2nd st from hook, *skip 1 st, sc in next, skip 1 st, 6 dbl in next stitch* to end

Additional Materials:
about 36-50 small beads, if your yarn is too thick for your beads, you will need to find coordinating or matching thread.

This hat is made in two parts, the "cake" and the Frosting.

Cake:
Foundation: Chain 11
Row 1, hdb in back loop of 3rd chain from hook, hdb in back loop only across, chain 1
Row 2: repeat row 1 until piece measures the circumference of the head of the person you are crocheting for. Note: if this is for an older child or an adult, increase your beginning chain, the cake section should be about half the distance from the forehead edge tot he crown of the head.

When you make this long enough, sc the edges together, making sure there are no twists in the "cake" section, the part that has the ridge from the sc will be put inside.

To ease connecting the 2 pieces later, sc around edge as evenly as you can, you only need to do this on 1 edge.

Frosting:

You will either a) string the beads onto the yarn, don't cut the yarn or tie it off, just leave it on the skein, and string the beads straight onto it, or b) if the yarn is too thick, string your beads onto the thread, you will crochet the thread along with the yarn for the desired sprinkles effect. Just move the beads up to the hook as desired... confused? look up any video on youtube for "crocheting with beads"

Foundation/ Round 1: Chain 2, create 1 puff in 2nd chain from hook, chain 1, create a 2nd puff, chain 1, until you have 6 puffs, chain 1, connect to top of the start chain with a sl st.

Round 2: sl to 1st ch 1 space, chain 1, *create 1 puff, chain 1, create 2nd puff in same ch sp, chain 1* repeat between *-* to end, connect to top of start with sl st.

Round 3:  sl to next ch 1 sp. Ch 1, *create 1st puff, chain 1 create 2nd puff in same ch sp, ch 1, create 1 puff in next ch sp, ch 1* around, connect to top of start chain with sl st.

you will continue this pattern, doing 1 puff, ch 1 in each single puff from the previous row, and 2 puffs with a ch between and after them in the "v stitch" sections from the row behind. This will cause the piece to expand outward in a hexagon, stop this increase when your top is as close tot eh circumference of your base "cake", from here, you will omit the increase stitches.

Creating height: sl to next ch sp, ch 1, create puff in same stitch, ch 1, *create puff, ch 1* to end
Repeat this row until it is the same distance from row 4 to the edge as the base "cake" is from top to bottom.

Putting them together:
Lay the "cake" inside the "frosting" the seam should be against the inside of the frosting and the sc'ed edge should be against the last row of "frosting".

Using the same yarn as you used for the frosting part, sc around the 2 pieces, making sure to pick up the stitch from both pieces, this will attach them to each other, and give you a base for the scallops. when you get to the end, slip to first stitch, do not ch 1.

Scallop around edge, fasten off, weave in ends.

Note: to save time, crochet ends from "cake" by tucking it inside the stitches connecting the two pieces., then you only have 1 end to weave in in the end.

Finishing: Add a large red bead or sew a red pom pom on top for the cherry.

If this was confusing, let me know in the comments, I'll try to explain it better, or put up pictures, or something.

Ravel it... http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/with-a-cherry-on-top


 

Winter begins and I miss the Flowers!

There is this wonderful trend that has been getting stronger every winter in my area, those lovely headbands that keep your ears warm and cozy, and are super cute to boot! Every pattern I have found that made me happy, but none of them were the "right" one... so I designed my own, and I worked up several and tried to sell them at the market I mentioned in my last post. The one thing I couldn't get right was the flower...this one was too flat, that one takes too long to make, the next one is look large and poofy, it's unstable on the headband... so I finally figured it out... I'll make my own pattern.

Chain 25, dbl in 4th from hook (counts as dbl and ch 1) chain 1, dbl in next chain, chain 1 repeat to end. chain 1 turn,

dbl in ch space, chain 1 2 dbl in same chain space, v made, *2dbl, ch 1, 2 dbl* in next ch space. repeat to end.

chain 1, 3 dbl in chain sp, ch 1, 3dbl in same space (petal made), *3dbl, ch1, 3dbl* in next chain space, and in each across. chain 1, fasten off, leaving about 10-12 in tail.

Use tail to weave in and out of base chain. your flower should curl up, pull tail tight, and use to tack the spiral in place how you like it, start the curl super tight int he middle, and loosen the flow as you work to the outside. tie off once you have it steady how you want it. Stitch this to your hat, headband, purse, or blanket. Or glue it to a hair clip for interchangability on your hairstyle or hats and such.

Pattern is untested, let me know if you are confused, or I made a mistake.

Sabrina Gloves!

Got a custom order today, decided to write a pattern!

Well, more of a recipe...I do those a lot!

Here it is: the Sabrina Fingerless Gloves

Sabrina Glove

This is a very simple, easy, nearly-mindless crochet project. Very little counting, and several rows of repetition.

Start with your favorite yarn, make sure that it is comfortable against the inside of your wrists. Chain until you feel it is long enough from the webbing of your fingers (if you are going to add the individual finger holes) to wherever you want it on your forearm, or from about the first knuckle of your fingers to wherever you want it on your forearm...

I chained 35. It should be an uneven number.

hdc in the 2nd chain from hook, (this first chain counts as your first hdc, now and throughout) *skip a chain, 2 hdc in the next* to end (I messed up on my start chain, I chained 34, should have chained 35.. if you do this, don't worry, you can fudge it, just do 2 hdc in the last oddball chain.) chain 1 turn

repeat last row, until you get to the length you want it before your thumb

OR

Keep going until it wraps around your wrist comfortably. we can create the thumb hole when we stitch it up.

If you have chosen the 1st option, you will 2hdc until you reach where you want your thumb hole, and you will chain 6 and then 2hdc where you would normally 2hdc, continue to end with pattern. chain 1, turn

on the way back, continue pattern, and when you reach the thumb hole chains, do your normal pattern into the 2nd, 4th, and 6th chains. then continue onto the normal location for your hdc's. to end.

continue in pattern until you reach your desired length to go around the wrist.

here you have 2 choices as well.
1) you can whip stitch the gloves up the side, if you have chosen to do your thumb now, then leave out about an inch unstitched and then continue the stitching when you get to the end of your thumb hole.

2) you can single crochet or slip stitch the edges together. if you are doing a thumb in this step, leave about an inch open for your thumb.

if you are doing fingers, sc around the edge closest to your thumb hole. I did 2 rounds before I started my fingers.

This might get confusing, and I am trying my best to explain it, so I am sorry if it's hard to understand.

count how many stitches around the edge. You will divide this number by 10. Then you will take that number and figure that the fingers will be two of that number in the middle, and 3 on the outside edges. sc around to the thumb edge, then sc #, sc across the opening into the corresponding sc. sc # stitch across to coresponding sc, making 4 finger holes total.

Stripe Pattern here: 4 blue, 1 purple

When you get all 4 holes finished, begin sc around 1 finger hole, in each stitch, until you get the length you want, then slst in next stitch, leave about 3 in tail, and cut off. you will weave this tail in later.

Attach your yarn to the next finger hole, and repeat the finger hole process.

weave in ends.

Now, here is the fun part, embellish how you want. Ribbon. Buttons. Beads. Or, leave it plain...

NOTE: If you chose to do stripes, as I have, make sure to a)crochet over your ends to avoid needing to weave in later, or b) weave in VERY well when you are done, Your hands get a lot of beatings, so make sure your ends wont fall out and unravel your hard work!

For an extra finishing touch, you could do a few rows around the back edge in an accenting color. Just make sure that you do not crochet it too tight to fit over your forearm.

 

Tundra: a pattern

I posted about Tundra, Caramel, and Woodland hats.

I promised a pattern for each of those hats... and so here they are!

I will post 1 pattern each day until I have them all up.

Tundra:

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as base, and first dbl) 11 dbl in 3rd chain from hook, slip into top of start chain.
Round 2: chain 2 (counts as first dbl) dbl in base of chain 2, 2 dbl in each stitch around, slip to top of first stitch.
Round 3: chain 2, dbl in base of chain. *dbl in next stitch, 2 dbl in next* to end, slip to top of start chain
Round 4: chain 2, dbl in base of chain, *dbl in next 2 stitches, 2 dbl in next* to end, slip to top of start chain
Round 5-8: repeat previous round, EXCEPT, add another dbl between each 2 dbl for each row.
Round 9-10: chain 2, dbl in each stitch around, slip to top of begin ch.
Round 11: (decrease rounds) ch 2, *dbl in each of the first 6, dbl2tog* to end.
Round 12 - ?: repeat round 11, decreasing the number of stitches between the dbl2tog
Round ?-?: Building your brim, details below

The hat pictured above has a simple, 2 in dbl brim. For this, you dbl in each remaining stitch, sl st to top of chain, dbl around, fasten off, weave in ends.

There is also the option of a more stable brim, from the end of your dec round, you will sc in each stitch around, NOT connecting the end of the row, but continuing the spiral.

OR you can do a sturdy Tunisian style brim, this give stability and fashion. and offers a better base for extras such as buttons or ribbon.

You will finish your decrease round, and sl st to first ch.
chain 4 (5), then start your Tunisian.
insert hook in first loop, yo and pull loop through (2 loops on hook)
insert hook in next loop, yo and pull loop through (3 loops on hook)
insert hook in next loop , yo and pull loop through (4 loops on hook)
If you only chained 4, follow this, if you chained 5, do the last step 1 more time, then move on to this.
insert hook in first stitch of hat base, yo and pull loop through.
yo, pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 2, until only 1 loop remains.
repeat this process using the "bars" you will see forming on the front of the work to build into. This stitch will cause a mild curl to form, but when you are finished, you will not be able to tell.

Do this last step until you reach the last stitch before the hat brim began, fasten off, and cut leaving about 10-12 inch of yarn left. use this to sew up the 2 edges, and add some accent to hide this seam if you'd like.

This pattern can easily be made for a small head, by following the pattern, but only going to to 5 or 6 rounds before starting decreases.

If there is anything that I need to clear up, message me on Ravelry or leave a comment!

Want to track your progress?

Ravelry: Tundra Tam

Also, when in need of a photo prop to hold the hat... and there is no willing child or roommates, I can always rely on my hubby's Nalgene to stand perfectly still.
 

Junuary has me thinking of the tropics

This is what I'm dreaming of:

This is what I have got:

Note, this is representation, not an actual photo from here. (Photo courtesy of Queen of Narnia)

What's this got to do with this blog, and my life? I am really really cold. Cold enough to start writing winter patterns, and even wearing a few.

So, here is the deal, Last June, I wrote up a pattern based VERY loosly on the Jayne Cobb hat from Serenity and Firefly. Known commonly as the 'cunning hat'

Here is the hat: scratch that, can't find the pic, I'll upload a new one later.

From the leftovers, and from the same idea, I made myself a matching "Ma Cobb Headband". 

Yeah, I don't have a pic of that either, but when I find it again I'll get a pic of it up.

Then, in November, I made a knit headband, blogged and pattern written up for the "Great Garter Head Hugger". 

I made notice that these were both dark in color, and not so springy... depressing. Picked up some yarn, didn't like it for the project I bought it for... can't remember what it is, but its a 2 strand bulky, looks handpainted (but it's not), acrylic, "baby" style. Nice stripe pattern.

Here is what I came up with, I rather like it!

You gotta ignore the crappy quality, it's a webcam photo, and its not so great...also, not wearing makeup, recently outta the shower, and slouched in a couch, not the greatest representation of myself.

Want the pattern?

How about a recipe...

use any hook and any yarn, make sure it's soft. 

you'll also need a tapestry needle and some buttons

crochet a chain of about 5-6 in, 

increase edge: 

row 1: 3 hdc in 2nd chain from hook, ch 1

Row 2: hdc in first hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc to end, chain 1

repeat row 2 until your headband is wide enough

Straight edge:

hdc in each hdc across, ch 1

repeat until it is about 4 in from the length you want

decrease edge:

hdc in first hdc, hdc2tog in next hdc, hdc in each across, ch 1

repeat until you get to last stitch

end tie:

chain until your chain matches the length of the first chain, this will be used to tie the headband to the right length.

bind off, embellish, and you are good to go!

Also, here is your ravlery link:

Junuary Headband